Review: Trollfjord

Who better to guide you through Norway’s most remote reaches—including the Svalbard archipelago, the northernmost inhabited islands on the planet—than a Norwegian cruise company that knows the area’s every crag and fjord? Hurtigruten is an Oslo-based line whose ships have traversed these waters since 1893, ferrying freight, mail, and passengers to the communities along the rugged coast. In 2023, to celebrate its 130th anniversary, the company’s flagship, the newly refurbished, 500-passenger MS Trollfjord (named for a fjord in the Vesterålen archipelago) began sailing two hybrids of its original 34-port Norwegian Coastal Express, calling at several of the towns and villages on the original route. From September through April, the North Cape Express (a 13-day, 16-port itinerary) sails from Oslo to the North Cape and then south to Bergen. In the summertime, the Svalbard Express’s eight-day journey begins in Bergen and progresses north, with extended port calls and excursions in seven towns before entering the Arctic Circle and pulling into Longyearbyen, a mining town on Spitsbergen, Svalbard’s main island. On both routes Trollfjord offers its (mostly European) passengers an uncommon way to explore the region, with uniquely Nordic cultural touches to connect them to the country. There’s a pre-boarding spread of Norwegian fare in the ship’s departure lounge, and Trollfjord’s three restaurants prioritize Scandinavian cuisine (salmon, reindeer, and lingonberries, oh my!) and the food culture of the indigenous Sámi people. The ship’s 277 staterooms and 12 suites (with walk-in closets, corner bathtubs and floor-to-ceiling windows) offer a cozy retreat from the sometimes-harsh weather. And typically Nordic diversions such as aquavit tastings, oceanview saunas and polar plunges leave you in no doubt about where you are and who you’re sailing with.